March 1, Saturday
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Jeff's immediate family joined Grandma for her 94th
birthday. Shawn surprised her by flying in. Her gift was
this framed 8x10 photo. Unfortunately, Yvonne was sick and didn't
want to give everyone her cold. |
March 8, Saturday
Day one of our month long trip to Hawaii and Australia. Everyone
is excited and everyone did well on the 5 hour flight from Washington Dulles
to Los Angeles and another 5 hours to Honolulu. Betsi and I remember
how we felt when we did this last time in August
2000 and spent the night
at an airport hotel. We'll catch a morning flight to the Big Island.
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Our friend, Dan, recommended these books and they deserve
the high
praises they get from travelers. The hidden gems and
adventures made us enjoy each island more than what we would have
with other guide books. They
are about $12 each at Amazon.com.
Big
Island Revealed $12
Maui
Revealed $12 |
March 9, Sunday, Hilo, Hawaii (east central Big Island)
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After 18 months of planning, where is Jeff's first
tourist destination? The urgent care center. His cold from Thursday
grew worse each day and developed into a double ear infection. He
spent the rest of the day in the hotel room. |
While Jeff spent the three hours at the urgent care center, Betsi and
the kids visited Rainbow Falls (shown) and swam at the Boiling Pots further
upstream. In the morning when the sun is behind you, a rainbow
is visible, but these were taken in the afternoon.
March 10, Monday - Hilo, Hawaii (east central Big Island)
Betsi saw the snow covered mountaintop of Mauna Kea during her morning
jog and came back to the room to grab her camera. It's almost 14,000
feet tall (4,500m). Both of these photos include Hilo Bay.
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The town clock shows the time of night during the
1960 tsunami that killed 38 people. |
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Jeff made a reservation with Paradise
Helicopters before flying to Hawaii for a helicopter ride
to see the lava flows. The doors are
off to take better photographs, but it's colder and windier. We
wore seat belts and had our feet on the floor, so there was never
a fear of falling out. I
didn't see any kids and I suspect this kind of tour is not for everyone. |
A river of lava heads for the coast on the left, goes underground, and
cascades over the cliff on the right. The heat above the hot, crusted,
black lava made the helicopter ride suddenly warmer when we flew over
it.
A prior lava flow covers the remains of a deserted neighborhood on the
left. The Kilauea crater steams sulfur dioxide gas. Our
altitude and helicopter rotors dissipated the odor.
A number of steam vents on the ground (left) along the 11 mile drive
around the Kilauea Caldera on Crater Rim Drive 4,000 feet (1,300m) above
sea level. On
Devastation Trail (right), plant life is starting to return to this once
barren land of a prior lava flow. An
observation area further down the road closed due to the high levels
of sulfur dioxide gas. It reminded us that volcanic areas are dangerous
places and conditions continually change.
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The Thurston Lava Tube (left) used to flow with
molten lava, but is now an empty tunnel. Ryan stands in a
crevasse of the July 1974 lava flow that used to cover one of the
roads we traveled to see the coast. |
We heard on the radio that the lava stopped flowing,
but we traveled along highway 130 to the new viewing spot anyway. We
were totally unprepared. We were supposed to wear pants, gloves,
and closed toe shoes and carry water and a flashlight. Because the
trip was a last minute decision, we didn't have any of those things. People
took pity on us. We
managed to park two miles closer because of the kids. It was a
rugged, dusty dirt path that saved us about 45 minutes of walking. A
couple gave us a large flashlight and we "piggybacked" off
of other people's flashlights. We
were part of a mile long line of flashlights hiking over the uneven
lava rocks to get to the viewing area. Our reward was two lava
streams flowing into the boiling ocean about a mile away. The
intensity of each flow changed from minute to minute. On the
way back, we saw lava flowing down the hillside, but it wasn't as
dramatic as this photo. The photo isn't as clear was what we could
see. The five second exposure blurred the rising steam plumes.
March 11, Tuesday - Driving around north end of the Big Island from Hilo to Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
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The palm trees looked different when the lens
was set to 16mm (ultra wide angle) on a full frame camera (Canon
5D). This
is part of a four mile scenic drive a few miles north of Hilo off
of highway 19 on Onemea Bay. |
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Ainsley drinks her fruit smoothie during lunch at What's
Shakin', a roadside food stand. They start with frozen bananas
instead of ice. |
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The bananas are about half the size
of the ones we see in grocery stores and they taste much better. It's
almost effortless to peel, not as firm, and easy to eat three for
a snack. |
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The Akaka Falls is 420 feet high along the northern
coast. A five minute hike through lush vegetation opens up
to this breathtaking view. |
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Highway 19 north of Kona has a different kind of graffiti. White
rocks spell messages across miles of black lava. |
March 12, Wednesday - Kailua-Kona, Hawaii (west central Big Island)
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We read about Makalawena Beach which is about a
20 minute walk north of the Kehaha Kai State Park, north of Kona. We
arrived on the only day of the week the park is closed; Wednesday.
We parked our cars with the other ones just off highway 19 and walked
the 1.8 miles on a bumpy, dirt road on a former
lava flow to get to a beach. After 45 minutes of walking, we
decided to skip Makalawena Beach and stay at the beach in front of
us. The hike was fun an memorable. |
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The beach was nice. Like most beaches on the
Big Island, we had to walk on or around smooth lava rocks to get
into the water. We found tide pools with tiny fish and black
crabs in them. The kids liked collecting black, two pound (1Kg)
rocks for their "store" to sell. The rocks off shore
kept the waters calm, which wasn't the best for riding waves with
the boogie boards. |
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Ryan goes pantless as his wet swimsuit starts to chafe
his legs. We realized that although a two mile hike wasn't
such a big deal, it became a big deal when something went wrong. Our
truck is parked where the black and green areas meet. |
March 13, Thursday - Kihei, Hawaii (south central Maui)
Our de Havilland Dash 8 from Kona (Big Island) to Kahului (Maui). Ainsley
has been writing, "We hope you feel better soon" on all of
the sick bags she could find. She then colors hearts around the
words.
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If the shutter speed is fast enough, the propellers
look like they've stopped. The camera settings are 1/4000s,
f/2.8, ISO 400. |
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Jeff wanted to start the Maui part of the trip right
with a few cocktails and great dinner at Roy's in Kihei. It
was time to leave the cold, ear infections, and jet lag behind. |
March 14, Friday - Road to Hana (northern Maui)
Ainsley gets caught up with writing postcards to the grandparents and
her friends. Ryan writes in his journal with a duck from his teacher
and a souvenir Tiki.
View Larger Map
The Hana Highway starts in Kahului near the airport, hugs the coast
for half of the 16 miles, changes from highway 36 to 360, the mile markers
reset to zero, and hug the coast for most of the additional 32 miles
to the Hana airport. The town of Hana is only two miles away before
changing to highway 31 and the mile markers start counting down from
51. The road was closed after mile marker 38 on the gravel section
that is sometimes washed away. It was an unforgettable 63 miles.
The woman at the roadside stand slices our first loaf of banana bread.
It was great. The other stand sold fresh coconuts and coconut juice.
The two lane road to Hana was often 1.5 lanes wide around turns and
approaching any of the dozens of one-lane bridges. "Exciting" would
be one way to describe the 50 mile drive.
Jeff (blue suit) and Ryan (red jacket) flew as back seat passengers
on a powered glider ride in Hana with Armin. Armin had a 35mm film
camera mounted on the underside of the wing. We saw a waterfall
(bottom right) and flew above the clouds (bottom left). Armin turned
off the motor while flying around the clouds and we glided the rest of
the way to the airport. Watch
the video of Ryan's impressions (2:08,
9.5MB).
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Charles Lindbergh's grave on the southeast side of
the island. He's most famous for his first, solo, nonstop
flight from New York to Paris in 1927 in the Spirit of St. Louis. |
Banana bread was a common item for sale at the roadside stands. We tried
three different loafs from different places and all of them were outstanding. The
one above is banana and chocolate chip for $7 a loaf.
Ryan plays with colored wax strands before dinner arrives. Jeff
was hungry and ate one of the two fish tacos. The fresh pieces
of fish fillet taste so much better than deep fried fish pieces that
we've had on the mainland. Jeff's hunger let him believe the town
of Pa'ia was in the middle of the 50 mile road to Hana instead
of at the beginning. Twenty
miles going 20mph on a curving road makes the hour drag by.
March 15, Saturday - Napili and Lahaina (western Maui)
Having fun at Napili Beach. The kids met other kids their age and
had fun with the boogie boards. Guess who slept in the car ride
home after dinner?
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A sea kayaker comes in at Napili Beach. |
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The Feast at LeLe featured
food and dances from Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, and Cook Islands. The
tables were on different levels so that everyone had a good view
of the dancers on the beach. |
Some of the costumes at the luau with the sunset and island of Lanai
in the background.
The kids making silly faces.
March 16, Sunday - Road to Hana (northern Maui)
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A convertible in Hawaii is nice for scenic drives.
The kids didn't like the wind on the 40mph stretches, but the 10-20mph
stretches were fine when the windows were rolled up. It was
nice to look up the mountain without a roof getting in the way. |
The entrance to the four falls of Na'ili'ili-Haele is 1 and 6/10 miles
past mile marker 5 (number 6 is missing) on highway 360. There
aren't any signs and the opening to the trail is barely two feet wide
(2/3 meter) between some bamboo trees.
Betsi and the kids carefully make their way down a hill (left) to cross
a crevasse (center) to reach the first waterfall (right).
After a few unsuccessful attempts, Ryan is the first one of us to use
a fallen bamboo tree as a rope to scale up the wet and muddy rock about
12 feet high. We made it to the second waterfall above. We never
made the third and fourth waterfall as it required climbing up a 10 foot
rock face.
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Jeff grills marinated chicken back at the condo. |
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Making Santa beards in the whirlpool spa at the condo. |
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Ice cream at Coldstone Creamery hits the spot. |
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Jeff and the kids played "I spy" {something
that is green} with the window display at Hilo Hatties while Betsi
shops inside. |
March 17, Monday - western Maui
We left the dock at 7:00am on the Quick Silver catamaran for a five
hour snorkel and whale watch tour. The kids practiced with snorkels
and fins over the summer at the pool, which made it easier for them on
this trip. Ainsley liked the boogie board with a cutout window for viewing
the fish and coral better though. On the second stop, we saw two sea
turtles swimming around. We rented wetsuits, which turned out to be a
smart move. The water felt warm, but after an hour in the water
at each stop, your body can't maintain the proper temperature.
We head toward the crescent moon shaped Molokini Crater for our first
snorkel stop. This is the only part of the trip thus far we wished we
remembered to bring the underwater housing for Betsi's digital camera. It's
collecting dust on the dining room table in Virginia. The water
was as clear or clearer than Caribbean waters because it blocked the
ocean current. Along
the way, we spotted a few whales with their calves. Many
have already left for their 3,000 mile (5,000km) journey to Alaska. The
peak time to see them this year was the last few days of February.
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Clouds were present every day, which made for more
exciting photos. There were always clouds on the top of each
mountain. After the snorkel tour, we headed back to the condo
to relax and catch up on laundry and photos before heading to Australia. |
March 18, Tuesday - Wailea (southwestern Maui)
We had to visit the Black Sand Beach. There are many across Hawaii. The
sand was not any hotter than a white sand beach, but the sand was courser.
Ryan battles the surf on Big Beach. During our snorkel cruise,
the crew talked about Big Beach and neighboring Little Beach. Betsi
and I weren't really paying attention. Ryan asked to go see Little
Beach, but we thought the cliff separating the two beaches would stop
him and he'd come back 10 minutes later. Twenty minutes passed
and Jeff went to check on him only to meet him near the base of the
hill, which looked like a cliff from the distance. Ryan wanted Jeff
to come with him to see something, but as soon as we see it, Jeff would
want to leave. Jeff asked if the other beach was a nude beach and
Ryan sheepishly answered yes. They immediately turned around and
headed back to Betsi and Ainsley. Ryan said he knew everything
there was to know and he even saw two people cuddling. Great. There
is goes twenty minutes of images permanently burned into his memory. Betsi
and Jeff sort of remembering a comment about a nude beach, but it was
mostly guys. Ryan said there were more girls than boys.
The sand and water were sticky enough to make a sand ball. Jeff
has never seen that before. We went back to the condo, took showers,
and flew to Honolulu around 7:30pm for an overnight before our morning
flight to Sydney.
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